2055 Antique Iban Ceremonial Ikat Bidang Textile Masterpiece Borneo

Antique Iban Ikat Bidang

Among the Iban, textiles are treasured as they are more than just objects made of fibre.

In some cultures, such as the Iban, textiles have played a major, if not central role, in all the ceremonies surrounding the important events in life. Power structures among women are based on dyeing and weaving skills. Perhaps the most important materials owned by families were textiles.

Ikat textiles are among the hardest to make, as the tie-dye is done on the unwoven threads before they are woven into cloth. So with a design in the weaver's imagination, the thread is dyed in sections as per the pattern that is required to be created. This takes immense precision and calculation. So when we note that these textiles were made decades ago in the rainforests of Borneo - Kalimantan, Sabah & Sarawak, there is a sense of awe for the creators.

Further, textiles themselves were believed to have the power to connect to the spirit world. The motifs, the dyes and the complexity of the weaving - all factors that were a direct result of the weaver's skill and experience - contributed to the power held by a textile.

Only textiles with certain features could be used during the most important community ceremonies and the weavers of these therefore enjoyed an elevated status of prestige.

So to study an Iban textile, requires us to focus on patterns, motifs, complexity and lastly and equally importantly - the dyes. The process of dyeing enjoys a far greater role in the value chain of production of Iban textiles than it does in any other group of textiles.

 48 inches x 16.5 inches 

120 cm x 42 cm

(complete at both ends. These are folded over and made into tube skirts and sometimes cut to get the size right. This one is perfectly preserved as the designs at both ends show)

NOTES:

So the two things that I look for when I acquire Iban ikats: 

1) The color. These textiles are used in daily life and therefore subject to wear. And therefore most Iban Ikats that are found today have heavy fading. So there are many with a fantastic drawing s, especially in the Bidang skirts that have faded heavily. These I do not acquire even though the art is impressive.

2) Registration issues. In the process of creating ikat art, alignment must be precise to create sharp motifs. If adjoining threads are not perfectly placed, the edges of the motifs are no longer straight lines and they look untidy. Lines turn out zigzag when examined at closely. This is impossible to avoid completely and a misalignment of a few millimeters is common. But a mature weaver has usually mastered this technique and so even motifs that are as small as 1 mm are rendered perfectly. If this perfection is present in an Iban ikat, it appeals to me.

3) Finally, the creative factor of the drawing itself is extremely important. Repetitive motifs are not as interesting as ones in which several ideas have been brought together to create the larger drawing. Then, it is clear that the weaver has put in some thought and soul into the making of the artwork. 

This textile was collected from Borneo early on, then framed in an acrylic case and displayed away from sunlight for decades. It has therefore retained it amazing fresh colors. Comparable bidangs are used as skirts and therefore subject to wash and, as is the habit in Asia, sub-drying which leads to some fading. The first thing that struck me about this piece is the retention of its rich color., that is unusual. 

Note the human-like figures. 

Note the precision with which the dashes within the each band have been executed in, not one but two colors. 

Note the fantastic rich color of the main field. 

Note the darker brown border(partial) around each motif that makes the undyed drawing stand out with greater contrast 

Note the circular vines all over. 

Note the rare blue selvedge

I've heard from experts who have studied Iban ikats for years that even a dedicated decade is not enough study to be able to 'read' the next pua that comes along. 

Minor damage to the selvedge and edges. Some stains.

 CLICK TO SEE THE COMPLETE COLLECTION OF IBAN IKATS

INTRODUCTORY PRICE

This item has spent a lifetime being used for the purpose of its creation with the original artist/user. Signs of this life lived heartily may be present on the piece in the form of stains, thread loss, loose threads, holes, tears, color run and other imperfections. Therefore the condition must be assumed to be “not” perfect. More photos of such imperfections will be provided on request.

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